The Cambria Orchid is an artificially bred home-grown hybrid. The variety has several varieties, differing in shades of inflorescences. It is often used to decorate residential premises and offices.
It belongs to the hybrid family of sympodial flowers that grow horizontally and have several growth points on a shortened stem (rhizome). Such orchids resemble a vine in appearance.
The type of development is shoot. As they grow older, the shoots die off. The height of an adult orchid is up to 0.6 m. Some varieties, for example, Kolmanara, grow up to 1.5 in length.
- Pseudobulbs. Formed on lateral processes in an amount of up to 12 pcs. The shape is oval-flattened or fusiform. Diameter up to 8 cm. From each grow up to 1-2 peduncles.
- Foliage. The number of leaves on each pseudobulb is up to 3 pcs. The color is dark green. The form is broad lanceolate with a pronounced central vein. The length in some species is up to 0.5 m. The location is tightly pressed. The leaf plate is folded slightly inward along the center vein.
- Peduncles. The form is often straight, some branching. Length up to 0.6 m. Number of buds – up to 50 pcs.
- Buds. The structure is zygomorphic. Diameter up to 10 cm. The shape depends on the varietal variety, but in most it resembles a star, decorated with large lower and narrow side petals. The color is different: yellow, white-pink with purple splashes, cream, red. On the surface of the petals there is an ornament of streaks, specks and shapeless spots. Smell from neutral to unobtrusive fragrant.
- Roots. Filamentous. Covered with velamen, which has a porous structure. They die off as the flowering of the pseudo-bulb ends. Aerial shoots are formed from young roots.
cambria orchid species and varieties
Cambria is the common name for a large genus, which includes several hybrids.
The prefix “mix” applies to all varieties and does not represent an individual variety. Used exclusively for commercial purposes.
Most often, one of the most popular types is taken for home content.
Burrageara. A complex hybrid was obtained by crossing Cochlioda, Oncidium, Miltonium, and Odontoglossum. Color shades in the palette of red and yellow. The buds have a pronounced aroma, similar to the smell of roses. Blooms in the middle of winter.
Wuilstekeara. The result of crossing Cochliodia, Miltonia, and Odontoglossum. Differs in large inflorescences of red, yellow or pink shades, and long flowering, about 8 weeks. Blooms usually in late winter – early spring.
Beallara. The selection involves Brassia, Miltonia, cochlioda, and odontoglossum.
It features long peduncles and a large number of dark red buds with white ornaments in the form of stripes, shading and mottling. The main shade is cream and white-pink. The smell is unobtrusive and light.
As it matures, the variety increases the number of flowering arrows. Blooms from July to August inclusive.
Catatante. Pacific Sun Sports has an unusual purple or red petal base with white spotting and orange shading.
Colmanara. For selection were taken oncidium, odontoglossum and miltonia. The shade of Tropic Jungle is in the palette of red and yellow. The smell is light. Blooms from February to June for up to 3 months. Re-budding is possible.
Odontoglossum Stirbik . Differs in increased formation of peduncles and lush flowering. Flowers are yellow and burgundy with bright stripes and white spots. The smell is unobtrusive.
cambria orchid species bloom
The varieties of Cambria are capable of blooming at any time, therefore they celebrate the year-round bud formation.
For most, this phase occurs in the autumn-winter season, but there are varieties that bloom in different periods.
The duration of flowering of an individual peduncle is 1-2 months. At the same time, the buds can bloom on different orchid arrows at different times, which explains the year-round budding phase.
In the end, the pseudobulb dries up and gives rise to a new sprout with the next life cycle, incl. and re-budding.
Stimulating flowering and blooming
In the absence of budding, the indoor orchid can be stimulated so that it sprouts with inflorescences. This is done with the help of a temperature difference, lowering the degree at night to 13-15 points for 2 weeks.
Other ways to stimulate homemade Cambria to start flowering:
- reduction of watering at the stage of pseudobulb growth, followed by resumption and termination again;
- the use of preparations with succinic acid, which acts as a natural stimulant for the development of vegetative mass in orchids.
cambria orchid growing conditons
For full growth and timely and long-term flowering, the orchid needs to create a suitable microclimate.
Orchid plants are suitable for diffused light without direct sunlight.
If you put a pot next to your home Cambria with lateral illumination, its foliage and flower stalks begin to stretch towards the light source and begin to grow in the wrong direction.
In winter, when the duration of daylight hours is noticeably reduced, they use artificial light sources – phytolamps. The total duration of lighting should be at least 10 hours.
Orchids thrive at daytime temperatures ranging from 18 to 25 ° C.
The exception is the long absence of flowering, when the drops are arranged as a stimulation.
The minimum temperature is 14 ° С, the maximum temperature is 30 ° С.
The optimum moisture content for good growth is 40-45%.
To increase the humidity, foliar spraying is resorted to over the foliage with water at room temperature.
In winter, when the air dries up from heating devices, a container with water is placed near the flower pot.
cambria orchid Transplanting
Proper landing is the key to the future health of Cambria when kept at home.
Substrate selection for cambria
For Cambria orchid hybrids, a light-structured soil with increased air permeability is suitable.
It can be purchased ready-made or prepared independently from the following components:
- pine bark, calcined in the oven or boiled over a fire, with a fraction of 1 to 1.5 cm;
- drainage materials.
The air permeability of the self-prepared substrate is increased with the help of additives – coconut flakes or crumbled foam.
cambria orchid Pot requirements
The root system of Cambria does not take part in photosynthesis, therefore it does not need sunlight. Any container is suitable for planting, even with opaque walls, incl. plastic and clay.
The most suitable option for growing is considered to be a ceramic container without glaze with a porous structure of thick walls – it allows air to pass through well and maintains a constant temperature.
In the hot season, the soil will not overheat, and in winter it is protected from hypothermia.
Transplant time and scheme
Orchids are planted immediately on a permanent place of growth, choosing a pot container that allows the flower to develop normally for 2-3 years.
After Cambria is transplanted, replacing the soil that has lost its useful components due to decomposition.
The reason for an emergency transplant is:
- decay of roots;
- excessive growth of bulbs or root system;
- accumulation of a large amount of salts in the substrate as a result of dressing;
- spoilage of soil mixture.
- a flower is placed in the center of an empty pot, evenly distributing the roots;
- the space is covered with soil;
- sphagnum moss is spread on the surface in a thin layer, preventing excessive evaporation of moisture.
For transplanting a young orchid, a pot container is selected, with a diameter of 2-3 cm larger than the previous one.
The most suitable period for planting is the end of the flowering stage.
Transplant at the flowering stage
Transplanting a hybrid in the flowering phase is undesirable. It is carried out only for sanitary purposes when the indoor flower cannot be saved without replacing the pot or substrate. This is due to the fact that during budding, the main forces of the plant are aimed at the formation of inflorescences and the extension of this period.
cambria Orchid Care rules
Caring for Cambria includes all the basic agrotechnical measures used in the cultivation of orchids.
For all orchids, watering is recommended by immersing the roots in water.
Duration – up to 0.5 hours. This time is enough for the roots and substrate to be saturated with moisture. In order to avoid the formation of stagnant water after moistening, the pot is left until the liquid completely drains.
The best mode for all colors is alternating watering and drying.
Cambria can also be watered over the roots. In this case, the time for the procedure is determined by the color of the root system: green indicates the sufficiency of moisture, gray indicates the need for watering.
Irrigation water is used neutral acidic, soft, without alkaline impurities and salts, which adversely affect the condition of the roots.
Cambria should be fed no more than once every 2 weeks at the stage of active growth and the formation of pseudobulbs. For feeding, they use specialized fertilizers developed for the cultivation of orchids, which include three elements necessary for flowers phosphorus, magnesium, and potassium.
Topdressing is available as root, applied with irrigation water, and foliar by spraying on the leaves. The best way to eat is by alternation.
Often in finished fertilizers, acids are included as an additive in the composition. These are natural stimulants. In the phase of active growth, it is worth using those complexes where succinic acid is present. At the dormant stage, feeding with mixtures with humic acid is more suitable for orchids.
cambria orchid Post-flowering care
At the end of flowering, the orchid requires slightly different care than usual. At this time, dried peduncles are cut off and watering is reduced, replacing it with moistening by spraying over the foliage.
Such conditions help the indoor flower to recover and direct forces to the formation of new processes.
Watering with the same regularity begins as soon as fresh shoots grow to a height of at least 3 cm.
Save Dying Cambria Orchid
Throwing out weakened or dying flowers due to a violation of the root system is not worth it.
Cambria Orchid can be saved:
- the orchid is taken out of the pot, damaged and rotten root shoots are removed;
- the roots are immersed in an aqueous solution of Fundazol, diluted in accordance with the instructions, for 5 minutes or treated by spraying;
- the plant must be transplanted into a new substrate, securing it with a support;
- watering is stopped, replacing them with leaf spraying, while every third is carried out with a solution of Fundazol.
The resumption of watering procedures is possible only after the final rooting.
cambria orchid Treatment for diseases and pests
All hybrid varieties of Cambria are distinguished by increased immunity and are able to resist pest damage.
However, violation of the basic rules for keeping an indoor flower can provoke the appearance of pathogenic microorganisms and harmful insects.
Timely prevention and urgent treatment of the disease when primary signs are detected help to avoid this:
- the newly acquired plant is kept in quarantine for 5-7 days, treated with agents against pests and diseases;
- once every six months or, if necessary, they are treated with fungicidal and insecticidal preparations.
cambria orchid Common diseases:
- Black dots on foliage. They appear as a result of the sunburn of the feast by the hit of rays on the water droplets left after spraying.
- Root rot. It occurs due to irrigation disturbances and stagnation of water in the ground. With mass or partial decay, the plant is transplanted.
- Dry rot on pseudobulbs. It is provoked by an improper planting, carried out too deep, or getting water on the bulbs. Moldy fragments must be removed to avoid spreading to healthy ones.
- Wrinkled bulbs. Caused by drying out of the roots due to lack of moisture. The structure can be restored by watering by immersion, avoiding the ingress of water into the leaf sinuses.
A spider mite can settle on a pest-resistant variety. A warm shower helps to cope with it.
cambria orchid propagation methods
In a sympodial flower in the area of \ u200b \ u200bpseudo-bulbs are formed from 2 or more buds, therefore Cambria is propagated by the method of division.
Breeding and propagation technology:
- for breeding, a healthy plant with 3-4 divisions of 3 bulbs is taken as a mother;
- parts are cut with a sharp knife;
- the sections are treated with crushed activated carbon or cinnamon powder;
- The parcels are allowed to dry out, planted in separate containers, set the time and put in a shaded place;
New orchids are watered after 10 days, and top dressing is applied earlier than a month later.
Difficulties of growing
When growing an artificially bred species at home, you can face a number of difficulties.
- The varietal variety reacts very quickly to a violation of care. With improperly selected watering or a lack of light, the appearance of a healthy flower immediately changes to a weakened one. The change of care and the introduction of stimulating feeding helps to restore the plant.
- Often, yellow leaves and rotting of roots are observed in hybrids. The most common reason for this is overflow and inappropriate irrigation technology. For Cambria, the immersion method is preferred over direct root wetting. When the green mass turns yellow and the root system decays, the orchid is dried throughout the day by removing it from the pot. Dry roots are cut from rotten fragments, treated with fungicidal preparations and planted in a new substrate. The yellow foliage is removed.
Growing a Cambria orchid at home is not that difficult. Illness is rare. … It is enough to plant the plant in a suitable pot with a nutritious substrate and care for it properly.
With a properly selected microclimate, the variety is able to bloom all year round and for a long time. Reproduction is carried out by divisions, after which parts with 2-3 pseudo-bulbs must be transplanted into separate containers.